950 SMR/SE Canisterectomy & SAS

I have a 2007 950 Supermoto “R”. For the purposes of this document, it’s basically the same bike as the regular SM, just better looking 🙂 The SMR is also quite similar to the SuperEnduro, so these instructions are probably pretty close if you have a 950 SE too. The seat, tank, tank shrouds and maybe a few other bits are different between the bikes. I don’t have a regular SM to compare how stuff is mounted, so I’m going to assume they are more or less the same.

There are several threads on ADVrider.com about removing the SAS and Canister on the 950 Adventures, but no detailed instructions on the Supermoto model. I decided to take lots of notes and pictures as I went thru the process so that the next newb will have an easier time of it. Thanks to the Hall of Wisdom articles for giving me a big headstart on what I was getting into.

A HUGE thank-you to Groomez for his excellent article on the canister-ectomy. His article inspired this one. Much is the same (same engine, duh), but there are enough differences and perhaps another view on the process is helpful too.

What You Will Need

Tools

¼” drive rachet (1/4″ drive is easier to get into tight places)
¼” drive extension 8”
6mm socket
8mm socket
10mm wrench
5mm hex bit (allen)
6mm hex bit (allen)
pliers (to remove hose clamps)
Long slot screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver

Parts

SAS block-off plates and vacuum cap (KTMtwins.com sells a kit)
(2) M6x1x10mm bolts to replace nipples on the left side of the intake manifolds
(2) 5/16” vacuum caps (from your auto parts store) to cap the carb synch hoses
A tube of QuikSteel expoxy-like putty (to plug a hole in the airbox)

Getting To The Goods

We need to strip stuff off the bike to get to the exhaust canister in the tail and the SAS plumbing on the engine. Since the SM is a naked bike with a one piece fuel tank, this is certainly easier than on the Adventure.

I guess I should note that just prior to doing this, the bike was on an all-day ride on wet roads and was filthy. I gave it a lick-and-promise bath to get the worst of the grime off, but as the photos show, dirt gets everywhere on a naked bike…

Here’s a pic of what I started with (topcase removed):

Start by removing the seat. Put the key in the seat release below the tail light, turn CCW and seat is unlatched. I have to wiggle the seat backward, then forward because the topcase mounting hardware gets in the way of lifting the seat right off.

I chose to remove the battery so that there was no chance of turning over the engine, causing sparks, etc while working on the bike. Simply undo the rubber strap, unscrew the terminals and it pulls out. It might take a bit of a tug. Mine was sticking to the rubber boot it sits in.

Removing the Fuel Tank

Now to remove the fuel tank. There are quite a few steps involved, but they are easy. Start by removing the tank shrouds. Each shroud is held on by two bolts on the sides (5mm hex bit) and one 8mm bolt on the top/rear. The shrouds on the SM may be attached differently than on my SM-R. Here is the tank with the right shroud off:

The front of the tank (near the radiator) has a cover on the left side. The cover fits around the horn and hides some wiring and connectors. Remove this cover (two 5mm hex bits). The SM may also have a cover on the right side. The SM-R does not.

And with the cover removed:

Disconnect the horn by removing the two spade connectors. If they don’t pull off/down, a slot screwdriver will get them moving.

Now to disconnect the fuel pump and fuel sender. Those are the white and black connecters tucked up in the recess below the horn. You push a little tab down on the connector and they pull apart. Sometimes they can a PITA because the tab is little. Here is the white one apart. The black one is behind it.

Time to disconnect the fuel lines. Start by turning off the fuel valves. Simply screw them in until they stop. There is one on each side of the tank.

The next step is to disconnect the fuel line from the valves. Use a pair of pliers to loosen the hose clamps and move them down the hose. Finally, pull on the hose and it will pop off the fuel valve. Expect some gas to come out of the lines.

We now have to disconnect the main fuel line that runs between the fuel pump and the carbs. This is a much larger hose than the lines on the fuel valves. The main fuel line has a quick-disconnect connector on it and can be found on the left side of the front cylinder. Push in on the “plate” on the connector and the connector will come apart.

Also hiding under the left side of the fuel tank is the fuel pump. It is mounted vertically and you just need to pull straight down on the hose to disconnect it. Almost done!

Remove the fuel tank vent line that is next to the fuel tank cap.

Finally (!) remove the three tank mounting bolts. There is one on each side and one up by the headstock. All are 6mm hex bits and the bolts are the same length. You can now lift the tank off the bike.

And the tank mounting bolt with tank vent line still attached (photo slighly out of order with text)

The tank is off the bike!

Removing the Tail Bodywork

The canister we are trying to remove is located in the tail, behind the toolkit. In order to get at it, we need to remove the rear plastics. Since I have a topcase, that means removing all the topcase mounting plates first. What a PITA…

To remove the topcase mounting hardware, start by removing the 3 phillips screws holding the topcase mount on:

Remove the four 5mm allen bolts with 10mm nuts from the adapter plate

Remove the four beefy 5mm allen bolts holding the mount on.

NOTE: bolts are different length. Long bolts/spacers go forward. I’m more than a little annoyed at the powdercoated (?) spacers leaving rusty residue all over. WTF????

Remove the tail bodywork (4 x 8mm hex, 2 x Phillips)

Now that all the preliminary stuff is off the bike, it’s time to start removing stuff…

SAS and Canister Removal

Here’s a photo of the stuff we are trying to get rid of: the canister, the valve and the assorted hoses:

Remove the rubber strap holding the canister in place

Disconnect the hose that runs through the rubber strap

Remove the two hoses from the front of the canister

Remove the canister by pushing toward the tail, then lifting up the front

Remove the valve thingie by removing the 10mm bolt (between exhaust and heat foil)

This leaves two hoses running forward from the tail under the fuses, relays and wiring. One hose connects to the rear cylinder intake manifold. The other hose connects to a T fitting the with fuel cap vent hose. I found the hoses to be too tight to pull out from the front, so I unmounted the electronics to give them room.

I have a fuzzy pic of clipping a zip-tie (wiring?) and then removing a rubber strap that holds the hoses together. I remember that stuff being by the rear cylinder.

Remove the fuse box ( 2 phillips screws) and the relays (2 x 8mm bolts) so that they are loose. No need to disconnect any wires. The hoses that run under them just need some room.

The hoses should now be loose enough to pull out from the front.

Remove the hose from rear cylinder intake manifold

Disconnect the vent hose that runs from the tank to the T, at the T. I just re-routed it down the left-front of the engine by the oil tank (sorry, no pic). Since the Supermoto has one fuel tank, I guess we don’t have all the venting issues the Adventures have.

Now would be a good time to re-attach the fuses and relays since we’re done with them.

The canisterectomy is almost complete, but we have a bit more plumbing to remove: the hose and valve from the front cylinder intake manifold, plus a couple vacuum nipples to remove and plug. All that requires removing the airbox so that we can get at the front cylinder.

It’s about this time that I started referring to cpmodem’s excellent article on installing the Head2Wind jet kit. He has lots of detailed instructions and photos about removing the airbox, etc. Great work cpmodem.

Remove the big hose from the rear of the airbox that connects to the SAS valve

Disconnect the SAS valve. There are two hoses on the bottom: a large one and a smaller one. The valve itself is held onto a tab with rubber strap-thing. Just slide it off the end of the plastic tab.

Remove the SAS cover from the front cylinder (right side) via 2 x 8mm bolts. NOTE that the SM provides easy access to the SAS cover bolts unlike the Adventure.

Remove the SAS cover from the rear cylinder (left side) via 2 x 8mm bolts.

Install SAS block-off plates using the reed valve as a gasket. Use blue Loctite and torque the bolts to 7 ft-lbs (10 Nm).

Disconnect the SAS hose that runs across the engine from the T (right side). I had to fight with the permanent hose clamp a bit. Thought about just cutting the hose with a knife…Then you can remove the hoses that had the original SAS plates on them.

Remove the SAS hoses

EDIT: The post on the back of the airbox is for terminating/plugging one of the vacuum sync lines that come from the right side of each carb.

Remove the hose from the top of the airbox

Remove the airbox cover (8 x 8mm screws)

Remove the black triangular air deflectors (?)

Remove the air intake horns (1/4 turn to loosen)

Remove the air cleaner. Might not be a bad idea to stuff a rag in the top of each carb…

Remove the snorkel ( 4 x 6mm hex) which will be replaced by the Uni pre-filter since I am also installing the Head2Wind jet kit while everything is off the bike. I found that I needed a swivel adapter on my socket to get at the front snorkel bolts.

The view from above with everything out of the way…

Remove the plate that the SAS valve hung off off from the rear of the airbox

Remove the triangular door/hatches on the right and left sides of the airbox to gain access to the carb clamps (3 x 6mm screws)

There are two sets of hose clamps on each intake manifold boot. The top clamp secures the carb. The bottom clamp holds the boot to the manifold. I used a long screwdriver to loose the top clamps on both boots. I disconnecte the fuel lines (the hoses with the coils around them and then wiggled/pulled the carbs free. Couldn’t hurt to have someone holding the boots down. You can use a bungie cord on the bar to hold the carbs out of the way.

You absolutely want to stuff a rag in the intake manifolds to keep stray stuff from getting into your engine. That could be very, very bad… This pic shows me removing the two bolts that hold some sort of valve (that we’re getting rid of) to the bottom right of the airbox.

Loosen the intake boot clamps and with a bit of wiggling and cursing the airbox will eventually come loose. It’s not attached to anything at this point, so you can just set it aside.

This pic shows the front cylinder intake manifold with the other vacuum line we need to remove/plug.

Here’s that valve from under the airbox with it’s assorted plumbing removed:

I removed the vacuum nipple from the left side of the rear intake manifold and replaced it with one of the M6 bolts (with some blue Loctite too).

And here’s the front cylinder intake manifold with its vacuum nipple replaced by an M6 bolt with blue Loctite.

Now we have to turn our attention to carb venting. The original plumbing has the float bowl vents meeting in a T inside the airbox and exiting via a single hole. We are going to have separate vent lines for each carb. The front carb gets an 11″ line and the rear carb gets a 10″ line. But first we have to make a hole for the vent lines to run through.

This is the bottom of the airbox. The silver things are inserts that the bolts that held that valve on ran through. I used a socket extension to knock them out.

Our problem is that we now have THREE holes and only need two for the carb vent hoses. So we are going to plug one of the holes with a small amount of that QuikSteel putty stuff. You roll it around in your fingers until well mixed then just fill the hole with it. It hardens pretty quickly, but you have plenty of time to mess with it.

Now this is where I installed the Head2Wind jet kit. I didn’t have the tools to measure float height or re-synch the carbs, so I just put the new jets in and hoped for the best. You end up replacing two jets from the bottom of each carb and one jet from the top of each carb. I already had the needle clip moved to the third position so I didn’t need to do that step.

On to the pre-filter install. Here is the snorkel as removed from the bike.

Took a bit of wrestling with a screwdriver to get the snorkel to pop out of its base.

And here’s the pre-filter installed on the base

Time to start putting it back together. I struggled to get the airbox and intake manifold boots back on. Then I got the recommendation to lube them first. So I sprayed a little teflon lube on my fingers and lubed the insides of the boots and the outside of the manifolds. Then it all popped back on quickly. Be sure to orient the hose clamps so that you can reach them thru that little triangular door (from the right).

We replaced the vacuum nipples on the left side of the intake manifold with bolts. The hoses that come out from the right side of the intake manifolds are used for synch’ing the carbs. We need to cap them, so put a vacuum cap on each hose and tie them off to the frame to keep them out of the way.

EDIT: you can connect one vacuum hose (with clamp) to the post on the back of the airbox (that’s what it’s there for) and either cap (with the cap the comes with the KTMtwins SAS kit) or put a bolt and hose clamp in the end of the hose. Note that I’ve had my SMR backfire while starting a couple times after filling up when hot and it blew the vacuum cap off one of the hoses each time. I will going to a bolt with hose clamp next time I’m at the hardware store.

Now just put everything back together in reverse order and you’re good to go! I don’t recall there being any weird issues with reinstalling the air filter, airbox cover, gas tank, or tail section.

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